Half past six this morning, myself and few friends were lucky enough and perhaps insane enough to be surfing as the sun came up. Personally insanity for me is a prerequisite to an enjoyable life.

In a previous life I would have already been at my desk striving to reach somewhere, but then of course thats not insanity.

Sitting there in the water discussing training and racing a good friend of mine said to someone ” Find your happy place ”

It does not matter where I come in a race, the amount of training I do or don’t do, the work, the stress the stuff that has been crammed in my head that I should do and achieve.

If I listen the voices it is a meltdown, had a few of them actually quite beneficial, but thats another story. Expectation and ego is a killer ruins all the fun.

I haven’t written for while cos I had my head up my arse trying to sort some shit out, its pretty dark in there.

I really didn’t understand at all that we are right where we are supposed to be, how bloody simple is that, and when I get myself out the way…it is all bloody good.

we are as happy as we choose to be……

Feeling very blessed the ocean heals and without saying helps to have some incredible support from amazing friends.

Find your happy place x